James Theodore Bent, the British scholar who toured the Cyclades in the 1880s, pronounced Santorini ‘a hideous island, fascinating in its hideousness.’
Although the hordes of tourists who descend on Santorini to take sunset selfies have rather blighted the island’s dramatic scenery, staring into the depths of the flooded caldera is still mind-blowing.
If you want show-stopping views without the crowds, follow my guide to the lesser-known Cyclades islands of Folegandros and Syros.