Looking for a low-key Greek island only an hour from Athens? Yep, it exists. And it’s barely changed since the 1980s, when I’d judder across the dirt roads on my friend Oliver’s vintage Norton, the wind in my salty hair and a few peaches in my backpack. Most of the roads are still unpaved. The beaches are still deliciously naked. And the hills are alive with nothing but butterflies and dragonflies. Want to know more? Read my feature this month’s issue of Atlas magazine.