Fringe Benefits

When Marianna Leivaditaki offered to cook me fish soup, I knew it would be good. Marianna is head chef at Morito, one of my favourite restaurants in London. But I didn’t expect  to be eating her silky, briny broth for breakfast, on a green bay wedged between granite cliffs on the western shores of Crete.  We had never met before Marianna picked me up that morning in her brother Andonis’ motorboat…

Western Crete is full of unexpected twists and turns. There’s a surprise around every hairpin bend in the highlands, a wild world apart from the luminous beaches along the coast. And then there’s the food —  reason enough to book a trip, right now.