Think Mykonos is all champagne showers and scantily clad models posing for selfies? Yorgos Kordakis’ gorgeous photos capture another Mykonos. An island of spartan farmhouses, dazzling monasteries, understated villas and simple, windswept pleasures. Like Kordakis, I’ve been going to Mykonos for decades. And there are still a few hidden places where the island’s bohemian spirit is alive and well. These are my local secrets (which I’ll probably regret sharing with Conde Nast Traveller’s readers). Read quick, before I decide to delete.
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Escape the crowds on these quieter Greek islands
To get to know the real Greece, you need to head to one of its lesser-known islands, peppered with small, soulful properties that offer a far more personal experience. Last summer, I visited three such hotels on three very different islands: the Aristide on Syros; the Rooster, a low-impact retreat on Antiparos; and 1900 Hotel, a four-room hideaway on far-flung Symi.
While each property has its own distinctive personality and backstory, all three are embedded in the landscape and the community, and all are run by first-time hoteliers driven more by passion than by profit. Because the owners are involved in every aspect of operations and have spent years getting to know the destination, each hotel made me feel like I was a special guest, rather than just another room number.
A for Antiparos
It may be tiny, but Antiparos has a huge following — not just because of Tom Hanks, who owns a house on this windswept Cycladic island. And now it’s hotter than ever, thanks to The Rooster, a low-key but seriously luxurious spa resort that opened in summer 2021.
The joy of Antiparos is that you don’t feel that you have to rush around sightseeing because there are barely any sights worth seeing. There’s a vertical cave encrusted with ancient stalactites (a disaster for claustrophobics), a squat medieval castle in town that occasionally doubles as a gallery or event space, and the magical ruins of Apollo’s temple on uninhabited Despotiko island, a short boat ride from Agios Georgios bay. (On your way back, stop at the Captain Pipinos taverna to taste the grilled octopus, sun-dried on a fishing line dangling over the quayside.)
Once you’ve ticked those off in a day or two, there’s no reason not to slow down and simply be present. From early morning yoga practice (the soundtrack to those alfresco sun salutations is, of course, a crowing rooster) to quiet nights observing the constellations, serenity comes naturally at The Rooster. The superlative spa treatments simply accelerate the process.
Best Greek islands hotels
The Times travel editors asked me to choose 14 of my all-time favourite hotels on the Greek islands. I had a hard time whittling down the selection, but these are my current top picks for where to stay on the Greek islands — whether you’re looking for romance or respite, stress-relieving views or designer va-va-va-voom.
Five Greek islands to visit off season
Sure, Greece shines in summer. But come out of season and you’ll discover a new charm to its big-name islands and off-the-radar hideouts.
Some Greek islands really come into their own after the summer heat and crowds simmer down. These are five of my favourites for off-season escapades.
A-Z of the Greek Islands
If I had a drachma for every time someone asked me which Greek island to visit, I’d be as rich as Midas (hopefully without the donkey ears). Finding the perfect Greek island for friends (or even strangers — I receive many unsolicited emails requesting advice) is like matchmaking: it doesn’t always work; but when you get it right, it’s love at first sight. It might even spark a life-long romance. But how can you choose just one island, when all are lovely in their own idiosyncratic way?
Find your perfect Greek island match with this insider guide from Aegina to Zakynthos.
The Most Romantic Hotels in Greece
Plenty of hotels in Greece know how to put on the rose-petal-strewn ritz for lovers and newlyweds. But the places with real sex appeal are the ones that are naturally comfortable in their own (naked, sun-kissed) skin. Quietly seductive rather than desperate to impress, these romantic Greek hotels all have a distinctive personality and a strong sense of place.
First in: Soho Roc House, Mykonos
Pandemic or not, people got to party. At least that’s what the unstoppable Mykonos crowd seems to think. Conde Nast Traveller sent me to sneak around the brand new Soho Roc House, Soho House & Co.’s first foray into Greece and the global beach club scene — they’ve snapped up nearby seaside sensation Scorpios, too.
Competitively fit and fashionable? This one’s for you.
10 Hot New Hotels in Greece 2021
Swap pandemic blues for Aegean blues with a trip to Greece in 2021. These are the hottest new hotels to check out this summer, from a swish shipping magnate’s mansion on Syros to an all-suite, adults-only hideaway on Milos.
Santorini resets for summer
The last few times I visited Santorini were disappointing. Even though I was there off-season, the crowds, coach parties, and fake wedding shoots, the over-construction and over-consumption all felt a bit too much. Instead of the poster child for Greece, Santorini had become a case study for over-tourism. But this summer is different. Without the cruise ships, day trippers, bucket-list checklists, and Insta frenzy, Santorini’s raw, natural beauty is back in focus. And it was mine, all mine, when i visited in June before Greece opened its borders. A once-in-a-lifetime that made me realise what a privilege it is to travel.
Frankfurt’s new creative cool, Atlas
Ask people whether they’ve been to Frankfurt and they’ll usually sigh and say it’s all bankers and skyscrapers, but no fun. Not if you know where to look. I found jazz and techno clubs, furniture and bag designers producing modern classics, amazing sushi and shakshuka, and some of the finest museums I’ve ever seen.
Photo by David Newby.
Why there’s never been a better time to visit Mykonos
Silver linings. Even pandemics have a few. Summer 2020 has been a terrible season for tourism. But for those able to travel, it’s been a great time to explore destinations that have become a little too popular. Like Mykonos, one of the most glorious Greek islands, but also one of the most crowded, expensive, and commercial. In July, the island was operating at around 20% of its usual high summer capacity — still lively enough to have a buzz, but with plenty of space to discover the island’s more authentically Greek side. On a mission to avoid the overrated, over-priced and over-hyped, I went to check out the new Soho Roc House and The Wild, the latest entries on the Mykonos hotel scene.
Athens Riviera in the Spotlight
Exciting openings and a fresh energy are revitalising the Greek capital’s sunshine coast. The Telegraph sent me to find out who is making a splash on the revitalised Athens Riviera. I got the lowdown on the summer scene from ageing hunks in tiny trunks and smooth hoteliers whizzing around in their speedboats and sports cars.
Brush with Modernity
It’s a typical Wednesday evening in Retsina, the scruffy industrial area behind Piraeus port. Traffic snarls up the backstreets, where mechanics smoke on plastic armchairs outside their workshops. Dockworkers pause for a beer on their way home. But one street has been cordoned off for a street party. The aroma of souvlaki grilling in a food truck mingles with the whiff of WD40 in a machine shop, glowing moodily under red spotlights. Bottles tinkle in coolers outside Paleo wine bar. Psychedelic armchairs made from flotsam and jetsam populate Rodeo, a gallery in a barely repurposed warehouse. Women in extravagant frocks pose with white balloons printed with portraits of cats at The Intermission gallery, which is celebrating its opening night. Welcome to the art scene in Athens, a city emerging from financial ruin to forge a new identity based on its oldest commodity: culture.
Read on to discover why Athens is the most happening cultural capital in Europe right now.
Greece’s Undiscovered Isle
Looking for a low-key Greek island only an hour from Athens? Yep, it exists. And it’s barely changed since the 1980s, when I’d judder across the dirt roads on my friend Oliver’s vintage Norton, the wind in my salty hair and a few peaches in my backpack. Most of the roads are still unpaved. The beaches are still deliciously naked. And the hills are alive with nothing but butterflies and dragonflies. Want to know more? Read my feature this month’s issue of Atlas magazine.
From the Edge of the Deep Blue Sea
Andros feels nothing like its stark Cycladic neighbours. Only two hours from Athens, this hunk of hills is rippled with streams, waterfalls, and walking trails that lead through thick woods to glimmering, empty bays. Though still very much under the radar, a handful of chic little guesthouses and remote retreats cater to those in the know. Here’s where to go.
This is Athens
At last, the official guide to Athens is live. I’ve spent the last two years setting up this online guide to everything I love about this crazy, life-enhancing city. From where to find the juiciest souvlaki to underground tavernas, secret beaches and dive bars, it’s an insider’s take on everything you need to know about Athens. Proud to have played a part in this wonderful endeavour as founding Editor in Chief. Huge thanks to all the talented writers, editors and photographers who put their soul into every article, and to the City of Athens, Aegean Airlines, Athens International Airport and Marketing Greece for trusting us to make this happen.
Find out everything worth knowing about Athens right here.
Lockdown escapes: where I’ll visit when this is over
We might not be able to travel right now, but at least we can dream. When the world has recovered from this pandemic, I know exactly where I’ll be headed. To the Greek island that changed my life and stole my heart. Friends from all over the world, who return to our beloved hideaway year after year, know why.
How to go the Greek Islands without leaving home
Who isn’t dreaming of lying on a — miraculously deserted — beach on one of the Greek Islands right now? Even if you can’t travel to Greece just yet, you can indulge in some armchair escapism to get you through quarantine. The books to read, the films to watch and the wine to drink – here’s how to pretend you’re on the Greek Islands from your locked-down living rooms.
Ultimate Greek Islands Guide, Conde Nast Traveller
‘The isles of Greece, the isles of Greece, eternal summer gilds them yet…’
Lord Byron was on to something when he waxed lyrical about the Greek islands. But with more than 200 to choose from, which one is right for you?
Read my definitive guide to the Greek islands for Conde Nast Traveller to find out…